Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid: Dermatologist’s Review
Azelaic acid has gained attention in recent years for its versatility in treating common skin conditions like acne, rosacea, and dark spots. One popular product in this category is the Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster. As a dermatologist, I often get asked if this product is worth trying. In this post, I’ll explain what azelaic acid is, how it works, and whether Paula’s Choice’s version is a good option for your skincare routine.
What Is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid derived from grains. It’s widely used in skincare for its:
Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Calms redness and irritation.
Antibacterial Effects: Targets acne-causing bacteria.
Skin Brightening: Reduces hyperpigmentation by slowing melanin production.
Gentle Exfoliation: Promotes cell turnover to smooth texture.
It’s often recommended for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin due to its mild nature compared to stronger acids.
Azelaic Acid Spectrum
Azelaic acid comes in different strengths, and choosing the right one depends on your skin and what you're treating. Here’s a quick look at common percentages:
5%: Ideal for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
10%: This is a common concentration in products like Paula's Choice and The Ordinary. It provides good results for acne, redness, and hyperpigmentation.
15-20%: These higher concentrations are usually prescription-strength and recommended for more severe acne or rosacea.
If you’re unsure which concentration to start with, consult a dermatologist for guidance.
About Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is a multi-action product designed to target dark spots, uneven skin tone, and redness while improving overall skin texture. It combines azelaic acid with other soothing and hydrating ingredients for effective results. Here are the basic facts:
Key Ingredients: 10% azelaic acid for brightening and calming, salicylic acid to exfoliate and unclog pores, and licorice root extract to reduce discoloration.
Purpose: Fades dark spots, evens out skin tone, calms redness, and smooths skin texture.
Skin Type: Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin.
Price: Around $39 for a 1 oz (30 ml) tube.
Who Is It For?
Best For:
Individuals with redness or discoloration from conditions like rosacea or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
Those with sensitive or acne-prone skin who want a gentle but effective treatment.
People looking to brighten and even out their skin tone.
Not Ideal For:
Those seeking a strong exfoliating or anti-aging product as azelaic acid works gradually.
Extremely dry skin types may need additional hydration layered over this product.
Key Ingredients
Azelaic Acid (10%): A naturally occurring acid that reduces redness, brightens skin, and fights acne by calming inflammation and preventing clogged pores.
Licorice Root Extract: A soothing ingredient that helps fade dark spots and further reduces redness.
Salicylic Acid: A gentle exfoliant that unclogs pores and smooths skin texture.
Antioxidants: Protect skin from environmental stressors and support a healthy complexion.
Texture and Feel
Lightweight Cream-Gel: The texture is smooth and blends easily into the skin, leaving a soft, non-greasy finish.
Fast-Absorbing: It sinks in quickly and layers well under other products, including sunscreen or makeup.
Scent
Fragrance-Free: The formula contains no added fragrance, making it ideal for sensitive skin or those sensitive to scents.
Packaging
Squeeze Tube: The tube allows precise dispensing and minimizes exposure to air, keeping the formula fresh.
Travel-Friendly: Compact and easy to carry, making it convenient for on-the-go use.
Price and Value
Cost: Around $39 for 1 oz (30 ml).
Value: While slightly more expensive than some drugstore options, the high-quality formula and multi-functional benefits make it a worthwhile investment for targeted skin concerns.
Shelf Life
Best Used Within 6–12 Months After Opening: To maintain its effectiveness, store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
How to Use
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is versatile and can be used on its own or mixed with other products.
Cleanse: Start with a gentle cleanser to prep your skin.
Apply Booster: Use a pea-sized amount and apply evenly to your face, avoiding the eye area.
Moisturize: Follow with a hydrating moisturizer to lock in benefits.
Sunscreen: Always apply SPF 30+ in the morning to protect against UV damage.
Use once daily, either in the morning or evening. If irritation occurs, reduce frequency.
Results Timeline
Week 1–2: Skin feels calmer, with noticeable reduction in redness or irritation. Initial brightening of the complexion may be visible.
Week 3–6: Dark spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) begin to fade gradually. Skin texture becomes smoother, and pores may appear less noticeable. Breakouts and redness caused by inflammation are visibly reduced.
Week 6–12: Significant improvement in skin tone, with a more even and radiant appearance. Long-term reduction in redness, especially for those with rosacea or sensitive skin. Skin feels healthier, more balanced, and less prone to irritation or clogged pores.
Note: Azelaic acid works gently and steadily, so results are gradual. Consistency in use and pairing with sunscreen is key to maximizing its benefits.
Pros and Cons
Before deciding if Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is right for you, consider its benefits and potential drawbacks.
Pros ✅
Combines azelaic acid and salicylic acid for brightening, exfoliating, and calming benefits.
Lightweight, non-greasy formula absorbs quickly and layers well with other products.
Fragrance-free, non-comedogenic, and suitable for sensitive skin.
Targets multiple concerns, including acne, redness, and discoloration.
Can be used alone or mixed with moisturizers for versatility.
Cons ❌
May cause mild irritation or dryness for first-time users.
Results take consistent use over several weeks to appear.
Premium price point compared to drugstore azelaic acid products.
Not a standalone solution for severe skin concerns like cystic acne.
How Does It Compare?
Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid Booster vs. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Price: The Ordinary is more affordable.
Formula: Paula’s Choice includes salicylic acid and antioxidants, while The Ordinary focuses solely on azelaic acid.
Texture: Paula’s Choice has a smoother, more lightweight texture, making it easier to layer.
Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid Booster vs. Skinoren 15% Azelaic Acid Gel
Price: Skinoren (prescription in some regions) is often cheaper.
Strength: Skinoren contains 15% azelaic acid for more advanced concerns.
Best For: Paula’s Choice is better for sensitive skin, while Skinoren suits severe acne or discoloration.
Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid Booster vs. La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo+
Price: La Roche-Posay is slightly more affordable.
Ingredients: Effaclar Duo+ combines niacinamide and salicylic acid, while Paula’s Choice focuses on azelaic acid with added exfoliation.
Best For: Paula’s Choice targets discoloration and sensitivity, while La Roche-Posay focuses more on acne prevention.
Alternatives to Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Why Choose It? Affordable, straightforward azelaic acid treatment.
Best For: Budget-conscious users or first-time azelaic acid users.
Skinoren 15% Azelaic Acid Gel
Why Choose It? Higher azelaic acid concentration for stubborn acne and discoloration.
Best For: Advanced users or those with prescription access.
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo+
Why Choose It? Combines salicylic acid and niacinamide for acne and redness.
Best For: Users prioritizing acne treatment with mild brightening.
Final Thoughts
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is an excellent choice for those seeking a versatile, gentle treatment for acne, redness, and discoloration. Its combination of azelaic acid, salicylic acid, and antioxidants ensures that it addresses multiple skin concerns while remaining suitable for sensitive skin.
While it may not deliver dramatic results for severe acne or hyperpigmentation, its ease of use, lightweight texture, and multitasking benefits make it a valuable addition to any skincare routine. If you’re looking for a reliable and effective booster to refine your skin’s texture and tone, Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is definitely worth considering.
FAQ
Q: What is Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster?
A: It is a lightweight booster that contains 10% azelaic acid to target redness, uneven tone, and breakouts while promoting smoother skin.
Q: How do I use Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster?
A: Apply a pea-sized amount to clean skin, morning or evening, after cleansing and toning. Follow with a moisturizer and SPF in the morning.
Q: Can I use Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster with retinol?
A: Yes, it can be used with retinol, but it is recommended to start slowly to avoid irritation, especially if you have sensitive skin.