Collagen 101: Benefits, Types, and How to Boost It
As dermatologists, we know that collagen is key to firm, strong skin. It gives your skin structure and helps it “bounce back.” But as we age, collagen levels decrease, leading to wrinkles and sagging. In this guide, we’ll explain what collagen is, how it works, and which treatments help keep or boost it, so your skin stays looking its best.
What is Collagen?
Collagen is a protein that makes up about 75% of your skin. Think of it as the “building block” that keeps your skin firm and smooth. Collagen gives your skin elasticity, meaning it looks plump and youthful and can "bounce back" to stay tight.
As you get older, your body starts making less collagen. This slowdown usually begins in your mid-20s, but you might not see changes until your 30s or later. With less collagen, skin can start to wrinkle, sag, and lose firmness. Things like sun exposure, smoking, and pollution can speed up collagen loss. That’s why protecting your skin with sunscreen and a good skincare routine is so important.
Where is Collagen?
Collagen is found in the dermis—the middle layer of skin—just beneath the epidermis, which is the outer layer we see and touch. In the dermis, collagen forms a network of fibers that acts like a support system, giving skin its structure. This network keeps skin firm, helps it hold moisture, and allows it to stretch and move without tearing.
Because collagen is located in the deeper dermis, it’s hard for topical products to reach it directly. Many skincare ingredients struggle to penetrate deeply enough to affect collagen production. For this reason, certain procedures, like microneedling or laser treatments, are sometimes more effective at building collagen, as they target the deeper layers directly.
Causes of Collagen Loss
There are a few common reasons why collagen levels drop over time:
Aging: After age 20, your body produces about 1% less collagen each year. By your 40s, this drop in collagen becomes more noticeable, leading to visible changes in the skin.
Sun Damage: UV rays break down collagen fibers, causing wrinkles and sunspots over time.
Smoking: Chemicals in cigarette smoke damage collagen and reduce blood flow to the skin, making it harder for the skin to repair itself.
Pollution: Air pollution can produce free radicals that break down collagen, weakening the skin.
Diet: A poor diet that lacks vitamin C, zinc, and protein can slow down collagen production.
Lifestyle Changes to Boost Collagen
The good news is that there are ways to protect your collagen and even boost its production! Here are some tips:
Eat a Collagen-Boosting Diet: Your diet plays a big role in collagen production. Foods rich in vitamin C, such as citrus fruits, strawberries, and bell peppers, help your body make collagen. Bone broth, which is high in collagen, may also be beneficial.
Stay Hydrated: Drinking enough water keeps skin hydrated, making it more elastic and less prone to wrinkles.
Take Collagen Supplements: Collagen supplements come in powder or pill form. Some studies suggest these supplements can improve skin elasticity, hydration, and overall appearance over time.
Avoid Excessive Sun Exposure: Protect your skin from UV damage by wearing sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day, even when it’s cloudy.
Quit Smoking: If you smoke, quitting is one of the best things you can do for your skin and collagen levels.
Skincare to Boost Collagen
In addition to lifestyle changes, there are certain ingredients that boost collagen production. This area of dermatology can be very confusing. Many ingredients claim to boost or protect collagen, but they work in different ways, have varying strengths, and can sometimes be difficult to understand. In this section, we’ll break down how these ingredients actually work, what makes them different, and how they can help keep your skin looking its best.
Normal Collagen Life Cycle
Collagen is made by cells called fibroblasts to keep skin firm and strong, with collagen levels peaking in our early 20s. Over time, collagen naturally breaks down, and as we age, we lose more than we make.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is overhyped for its role in collagen support. While it does three key things—(1) slightly boosts collagen production, (2) protects existing collagen from damage, and (3) helps prevent collagen breakdown—it struggles to penetrate deeply into the skin. Vitamin C has other great benefits, but collagen-building isn’t its strongest feature.
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic Acid exfoliates the skin and boosts collagen by causing mild inflammation, which signals fibroblasts to make more collagen. While it helps build collagen, it doesn’t prevent it from breaking down, and it works more gradually than some other ingredients. On the bright side, its small size allows it to penetrate the skin easily to activate the body’s natural healing process.
Retinol
Retinol is often seen as the best ingredient for building collagen because it does three things: (1) it increases the number of fibroblasts, (2) boosts collagen production, and (3) prevents collagen breakdown. These three steps are a powerful combination for keeping skin firm.
Peptides
“Peptides” is a very non-specific term, and its collagen-boosting power really depends on the type. Peptides can help stimulate collagen and sometimes prevent its breakdown. However, it’s hard for peptides to get deep into the skin. Additionally, many popular peptides are only active for ~30 minutes. Peptides are a gentle option but not the best for collagen.
Oral Collagen Supplements
Oral Collagen Supplements give your body the building blocks (amino acids) to make collagen. Some of the collagen is broken into tiny fragments that “trick” fibroblasts into thinking collagen is breaking down, so they start making more to repair it. Unlike creams, these fragments can reach the deeper layer of skin (the dermis) because they work from the inside out. Results can vary, and they work best with a healthy diet and good skincare routine.
Tretinoin Before and After
Let’s see tretinoin in action! Tretinoin is in the retinol family, and it’s often prescribed for treating acne and reducing signs of aging. (It’s over-the-counter equivalent is retinol.) It’s one of the few skincare ingredients proven to boost collagen. When you apply tretinoin, it helps create new skin cells and speeds up the removal of old ones. This process thickens the dermis (the inner layer of skin), making fine lines and wrinkles less noticeable.
The before-and-after image below shows how tretinoin can reduce wrinkles. Notice how the fine lines look smoother and the skin's texture is more even. This shows how tretinoin can help rejuvenate your skin by boosting collagen.
Collagen Before and After
Oral collagen supplements have become popular for improving skin, hair, and nail health. These supplements come in powders and pills, and many people hope for smoother skin, fewer wrinkles, and stronger nails. Results from collagen supplements can vary, but some people notice softer skin and better hydration within a few weeks. However, bigger changes like firmer skin and fewer wrinkles usually take 8-12 weeks of regular use. Keep in mind that supplements aren’t a magic fix, and results can depend on age, lifestyle, and the type of collagen you’re taking.
Procedures to Boost Collagen
Boosting collagen with skincare products can be challenging since most creams don’t reach the deeper layer of skin, called the dermis, where collagen is produced. Professional treatments like microneedling, lasers, and ultrasound can stimulate collagen more effectively because they reach the deeper layers of skin. Here’s how these treatments work:
Chemical Peels
Chemical peels like glycolic acid or TCA peels remove the top layer of skin, which can boost collagen over time as the skin heals.
Lasers
Lasers like Fraxel or CO2 lasers heat the dermis, stimulating collagen production to reduce wrinkles, scars, and sun damage.
Microneedling
Tiny needles create small injuries in the skin, which triggers the body’s natural healing process, including collagen production.
RF Microneedling
This combines microneedling with radiofrequency (RF) energy to deliver heat deep into the skin, further encouraging collagen production and tightening the skin.
These treatments work best when done regularly, as collagen production takes time. It can take 4-6 months to see full results, so patience is key.
How Long Does It Take to See Results?
Collagen production takes time, so don’t expect instant results. Here’s a general timeline for different methods:
Topical Products: You may start to see results in 8-12 weeks.
Supplements: Collagen supplements usually take 2-3 months to improve skin elasticity and hydration.
In-Office Treatments: Procedures like lasers or microneedling may take a few months for full results, as your body gradually produces more collagen.
FAQ
What is collagen?
Collagen is a protein that provides structure and elasticity to the skin, helping it stay firm and smooth.
How does collagen decrease with age?
Collagen production naturally declines with age, leading to wrinkles, sagging, and reduced skin elasticity. Sun exposure and lifestyle factors can accelerate this process.
Can you boost collagen production?
Yes, you can boost collagen production by using retinoids, peptides, and vitamin C, as well as maintaining a healthy diet rich in protein and antioxidants.
Do collagen supplements work?
Collagen supplements may improve skin elasticity and hydration for some people, though results vary. Look for hydrolyzed collagen peptides for better absorption.