Pores 101: A Complete Guide to Understanding Your Pores

I trained under a dermatologist who used to say “Pore size is like shoe size. You can’t change it.” But is this true?! They’re a normal part of your skin, but they can sometimes get larger or clogged, leading to problems like blackheads or acne. In this guide, we'll break down what pores are, why they matter, and how to keep them healthy.

What Are Pores?

Pores are small holes on the surface of your skin. They let sweat and oil out, which helps keep your skin cool and moisturized. Everyone has pores, but their size can be different for each person. Some people have larger, more visible pores due to things like genetics, skin type, or the environment.

We can manage two main things when it comes to pores: oil and dead skin. Oil (or sebum) keeps the skin hydrated, but too much can make pores look bigger. Dead skin cells can also build up and get stuck in pores, leading to blackheads, whiteheads, and acne.

By reducing oil and getting rid of dead skin, you can make your pores look smaller and clearer. Using the right skincare products can help a lot, but it depends on your pore type!

What kind of pores do you have? And what products should you use? Keep reading to find out!

Normal Pore

This is a normal pore. The oil gland releases oil into the hair follicle, which then spreads it across the skin's surface. Meanwhile, our skin naturally sheds dead cells all the time. This constant flaking is one reason our homes get dusty – it's actually a mix of dead skin cells and other particles!

Your Visual Guide to Pores

Pores can look different depending on your skin type, how much oil your skin makes, and how you care for it. Genetics, sun exposure, and even the weather can also change how your pores look. Some people have small, hardly noticeable pores, while others may have larger or darker ones due to oil, clogs, or aging. Understanding your pores can help you pick the right skincare routine to keep them clear and healthy. Here’s a look at the different types of pores and how to manage them:

Normal pores are small, even, and hard to notice. People with balanced, normal skin usually have these types of pores. Their skin feels smooth and produces just the right amount of oil. To keep these pores healthy, use a gentle face wash and a light moisturizer. In short, stick to gentle skincare!

Large pores are bigger than normal and can look like little "donuts" around each hair follicle. They are more common in oily skin, aging skin, or skin with a lot of sun exposure. The skin’s texture might feel rough and uneven. To help reduce their appearance, try using niacinamide and retinol to control oil and, over time, possibly shrink the pore size. These generally respond better to procedures (see below).

Blackheads are dark, open pores filled with oil, dead skin cells, and debris. They look dark because the oil is exposed to air, causing it to oxidize. Blackheads are often found on the nose, cheeks, and chin. To keep pores clear, try ingredients that unclog pores, like salicylic acid, azelaic acid, and retinol. Retinol is especially useful because it helps lower oil production and unclogs pores.

Acne happens when pores get clogged and inflamed, often from bacteria, oil, and dead skin cells. It can show up as red, painful bumps, sometimes filled with pus. Acne is common on oily areas like the T-zone but can appear anywhere on the face. Managing acne involves the ingredients we’ve discussed so far (retinol, niacinamide, salicylic acid, azelaic acid) AND ingredients that will KILL BACTERIA (benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, and sulfur) and DECREASE INFLAMMATION (niacinamide, azelaic acid, and sulfur). Note how both azelaic acid and sulfur pull double duty for acne treatment!

Oily pores make extra oil (called sebum). These pores are common in people with oily skin, especially on the forehead, nose, and chin—an area called the T-zone. The skin often looks shiny, and pores may feel greasy. To manage oily pores, try using ingredients like niacinamide or retinol to help control the oil.

Sebaceous filaments are tiny gray or flesh-colored dots that often show up on the nose and chin. They’re normal and help bring oil to the skin’s surface. People sometimes confuse them with blackheads, but they’re not as deep and are more evenly sized. To keep pores clear, try ingredients like salicylic acid, azelaic acid, and retinol. Retinol is especially helpful because it both lowers oil production and unclogs pores.

Why Do Pores Get Larger?

Pores can look larger for several reasons:

Excess Oil Production: Oily skin makes more sebum, which can stretch pores and make them appear bigger. Only two ingredients actually reduce oil production: niacinamide and retinol.

Aging and Collagen Loss: As skin ages, it produces less collagen, which reduces elasticity. This can make pores look larger since they’re no longer held tight by firm skin. The best ingredient to build collagen is retinol.

Sun Damage: UV exposure can thicken skin and make pores more visible. It also breaks down collagen, which can make pores look larger. Retinol is the top ingredient for rebuilding collagen.

Clogged Pores: Dirt, dead skin cells, and oil can build up in pores, stretching them out and sometimes leading to blackheads or acne. Ingredients that unclog pores include salicylic acid, azelaic acid, and retinol.

Can You Shrink Pores?

Pores can’t be completely eliminated, but you can minimize their appearance. Here’s a guide to different over-the-counter ingredients to help, based on your pore concerns:

Reduce Oil Production: To control excess oil, try retinol and niacinamide. Retinol not only reduces oil but also boosts cell turnover, doing double duty. Niacinamide helps regulate oil and reduce inflammation, making it ideal for oily, acne-prone skin.
Unclog Pores: Blocked pores can lead to acne and blackheads. Retinol, salicylic acid, and azelaic acid are effective for clearing out pores. Salicylic acid penetrates oil inside pores, while azelaic acid reduces buildup and has antibacterial properties.
Kill Bacteria: Bacteria in pores can trigger breakouts. Benzoyl peroxide is a strong antibacterial that targets acne-causing bacteria, while sulfur and azelaic acid also offer mild antibacterial effects.
Reduce Inflammation: Redness and inflammation can make pores look larger and contribute to acne. Niacinamide, azelaic acid, and sulfur help calm redness and swelling. Niacinamide soothes skin, azelaic acid reduces redness, and sulfur dries out blemishes.

Does Skincare Clog Pores?

Certain ingredients can clog pores, especially if you’re prone to oily skin or breakouts. Here’s a quick guide:

Vaseline: Vaseline (petroleum jelly) is often labeled as non-comedogenic, meaning it doesn't clog pores. However, it can trap dirt or oil underneath if applied to unclean skin.
Beeswax: Can clog pores, especially for those with oily or acne-prone skin.
Shea Butter: Generally safe, but may clog pores for some people, especially on the face.
Aloe Vera: Usually non-comedogenic, but heavy formulations can clog pores.
Jojoba Oil: Generally safe and does not clog pores for most people. It’s often used to balance oily skin.
Coconut Oil: Highly comedogenic, making it more likely to clog pores.

Procedures for Large Pores

There are several ways to treat enlarged pores, depending on your skin type and what you hope to improve. Chemical peels are one option, using acids like salicylic or glycolic acid to remove dead skin and clear out pores, making them look smaller. Another treatment is microneedling, which involves tiny needles that create small holes in the skin, boosting collagen production. This extra collagen can make pores appear tighter over time. Lasers are also an option, as they smooth the skin and improve texture, which helps reduce the appearance of large pores. For a deeper treatment, radiofrequency microneedling combines microneedling with heat to reach deeper layers of the skin, stimulating even more collagen and tightening pores effectively. Each of these treatments has its own benefits and drawbacks, so talking to a dermatologist can help you decide which one is best for you.

Chemical Peels

Professional chemical peels can penetrate deeper than at-home versions, effectively clearing out pores and tightening skin.

Microneedling

Microneedling can tighten the skin and reduce pore size by promoting new collagen formation.

Laser

Lasers can stimulate collagen production, tightening the skin and reducing the appearance of enlarged pores.

Radiofrequency

The increased collagen can help tighten the skin and reduce the visibility of pores.

FAQ

What causes enlarged pores?
Enlarged pores are caused by excess oil production, genetics, and aging. Dead skin cells and debris can also clog pores, making them appear larger.

Can you shrink pores?
While you can’t permanently shrink pores, you can minimize their appearance by using exfoliants like salicylic acid, retinoids, and oil-controlling products.

How do I keep my pores clean?
Use non-comedogenic products, cleanse daily, and exfoliate 1-2 times a week with a product containing salicylic acid or glycolic acid.

Do pore strips work?
Pore strips temporarily remove blackheads and surface debris but don’t address the root cause of clogged pores. Regular exfoliation is more effective for long-term results.

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