Doctor’s Note: Your Essential Guide to Chemical Peels

When deciding which peel is best for your particular skin, there's many options and a confusing world of acids, brand names, downtime, etc. We've tried to break down the most popular peels available to help you sift through this information. To find the perfect match for your skin, click to your right, or browse through the key points below!

What are Chemical Peels?

A chemical peel is a skin treatment where a chemical solution is applied to the skin to remove the top layers. This process helps to improve the appearance of the skin, making it look smoother and younger. Dermatologists use chemical peels to treat a variety of skin conditions and to enhance the skin's overall appearance:

Treats Acne: Helps clear clogged pores and reduce breakouts.
Reduces Fine Lines: Smooths out early signs of aging.
Improves Skin Texture: Makes skin feel softer and smoother.
Fades Dark Spots: Lightens areas of hyperpigmentation.
Boosts Collagen Production: Encourages skin renewal for a youthful look.

How Do Chemical Peels Work?

Chemical peels use acids to exfoliate the skin. These acids break down the bonds between dead skin cells, helping them shed more easily. The depth of the peel depends on the type of acid used and its concentration. Peels can target the outer layer of skin (epidermis), the middle layer (dermis), or both. There are four main types of chemical peels:

(1) Very Superficial Peels are over-the-counter and typically do not produce an actual “peel” of the skin.
(2) Superficial Peels are the next mildest type of peel. They are performed in an office and treat fine lines, acne, uneven skin tone, and dryness.
(3) Medium Peels penetrate the dermis. This results in a longer recovery (1 - 2 weeks) but treats deeper concerns like wrinkles, acne scars, and uneven skin tone.
(4) Deep Peels are the most intense type of peel. They often use phenol and penetrate several layers of skin. Deep peels require sedation and cardiac monitoring. They are not commonly performed.

What to Expect During a Chemical Peel

Chemical peels use acids to exfoliate the skin. These acids break down the bonds between dead skin cells, helping them shed more easily. The depth of the peel depends on the type of acid used and its concentration. Peels can target the outer layer of skin (epidermis), the middle layer (dermis), or both. Here's a simple breakdown of the process:

Before

Avoid the sun for a few weeks before your peel. Your provider may ask you to start/stop certain medications before your procedure. On your big day, wear a button-up shirt and a hat. Your skin will be cleaned thoroughly.

Procedure

For protection, your provider may apply Vaseline around your eyes, nose, and/or mouth. The chemical solution then is applied to the skin, which may cause a stinging or tingling sensation for 1 - 2 minutes. The intensity depends on the type of peel you receive. Leave with your hat and go right home!

After

Your skin will be red and sensitive after the treatment. For superficial peels, you can return to your normal activities right away and recovery is 1 - 3 days. Medium peels require more recovery time. Your skin will peel for several days, and you might need to take some time off from work or school. During your recovery, stay out of the sun, moisturize, and avoid picking!

Over-the-Counter Peels

Very superficial peels affect only the stratum corneum, which is protective "brick layer" of dead skin cells that protect us from the environment. These peels can provide subtle exfoliation and luminosity by getting rid of excessive dead skin that may be dulling your appearance. They can also be great for acne (especially salicylic acid!) Very superficial peels typically do not "peel," meaning your skin will not become very flakey. These are peels that are readily found over the counter and do not require downtime.

Glycolic Acid

Great for: Dark spots, aging skin, keratosis pilaris (KP), and general exfoliation
Over-the-Counter: <20%
Office-Based Peel: 30-70%
Notes: Can be irritating; not recommended for sensitive skin

Lactic Acid

Great for: Hydration, mild exfoliation, sensitive skin, and dry skin
Over-the-Counter: <10%
Office-Based Peel: 20-40%
Notes: Gentle on the skin; suitable for sensitive skin

Mandelic Acid

Great for: Acne, rosacea, oily skin, and hyperpigmentation
Over-the-Counter: <10%
Office-Based Peel: 20-40%
Notes: Less irritating; good for sensitive and darker skin types

Salicylic Acid

Great for: Acne, oily skin, and blackheads
Over-the-Counter: <2%
Office-Based Peel: 20-30%
Notes: Penetrates deep into pores; not recommended for very dry or sensitive skin

Office-Based Peels

Office-based chemical peels are a popular and effective way to rejuvenate the skin and address various skin concerns. Performed by dermatologists or licensed skincare professionals, these treatments involve applying a chemical solution to the skin to exfoliate and remove dead skin cells. Depending on the depth of the peel, they can target issues such as acne, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and uneven texture. Unlike over-the-counter products, office-based chemical peels use higher concentrations of active ingredients, providing more dramatic and long-lasting results. With expert supervision, these treatments are tailored to meet individual skin needs, ensuring both safety and effectiveness.

Superficial peels work on the top layer of the skin, called the epidermis. Because they only affect the epidermis, these peels can help with problems like uneven skin color, rough texture, sun damage, and acne. They are safe for all skin types and usually have a short recovery time, typically just a few days.

Medium-depth peels go deeper into the skin, reaching the upper dermis. They are great for treating fine lines, sun damage, dark spots, scars, and pre-cancerous growths. After getting a medium-depth peel, you can expect some swelling, redness, and peeling. It takes about 1 to 2 weeks for the skin to fully peel and heal. You can get a medium-depth peel every 2-3 months. If you have darker skin, you might need to prepare your skin before getting this type of peel.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is the most popular peel because it treats a variety of conditions. Office peel levels range from 30% - 50%. It stimulates collagen and lightens dark spots, so this is the workhorse of the dermatology world!

Best For: A lil bit of everything: Dark Spots, Fine Lines, Keratosis Pilaris, Acne Scars

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is a gentle, non-irritating peel with practically no side effects. It's gentle enough for sensitive skin. Lactic acid has two great qualities: brightening + hydration.

Best For: Dark spots + Dry skin

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is the mainstay of acne treatment. It dives deep into the pore, clearing them out and slowing oil production. It is both antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory, so it works against acne from multiple angles!

Best For: Acne, Large Pores, Oily Skin, Texture

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is the largest molecule of the peels, resulting in a non-irritating peel with little to no side effects. It's great for sensitive skin and has two great qualities: brightening and antibacterial properties.

Best For: Dark Spots, Acne, Rosacea, Large Pores, Oily Skin, Texture

Jessner

A Jessner's peel (lactic acid + salicylic acid + resorcinol to brighten) is perfect or oily, acne-prone skin. It is comprised of both lactic and salicylic acids + resorcinol (a lightening agent) to treat both acne and the dark spots that ensue.

Best For: Dark Spots, Acne, Large Pores, Texture

TCA

The TCA peel is a favorite for anti-aging due to its collagen stimulation. TCA is also great at suppressing pigment, meaning it is a wonderful option for lightening dark spots. A great anti-aging peel in general!

Best For: Dark Spots, Fine lines, Scars, Aging

Chemical Peel Recovery

After a superficial peel, your skin might be red and feel tight for a day or two. You might experience some mild peeling, similar to what you get after a sunburn. This usually goes away in a few days, making the recovery quick and easy. A medium-depth peel causes more intense redness, swelling, and peeling, lasting for about 1 to 2 weeks. The peeling is deeper and can be more noticeable. This peel requires more time and care to heal properly than a superficial peel.

Superficial Peel

Recovery from a superficial peel is quick and mild. On Day 1, your skin may look slightly pink and feel a bit tight, like a mild sunburn. By Day 2, you might notice some light flaking or dryness as your skin begins to shed. On Days 3-4, the flaking continues, but it’s usually minimal and easy to manage with moisturizer.

Medium Peel

Recovery from a medium-depth peel happens in stages. On Day 1, your skin will look red and feel tight right after the procedure. By Day 2, the redness may increase as your skin starts to heal. Over the next few days (Days 3-4), your skin will turn a bronze color, and peeling will begin. During Days 5-6, the peeling continues as the old, damaged skin sheds away. By Days 7-10, the healing process is nearly complete, and you’ll start to see fresh, smoother skin appear. Following your post-peel care instructions is key to getting the best results!

Which Chemical Peels Are Safe for Skin of Color?

Which chemical peels are safe for darker skin types? It’s all about the skin’s anatomy! Melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin (which gives skin its color), are located at the very bottom layer of the epidermis. These cells are extremely sensitive. Exposing them to acid or inflammation from a peel can cause uneven skin color.

Very superficial and superficial peels are usually safe for darker skin. Medium-depth peels can be safe, too, but might need some preparation. How do we prep the skin? By using hydroquinone! Hydroquinone is a cream that reduces melanin production. When used for 2 to 6 weeks before a peel, it “pauses” the melanocyte and lowers the risk of getting dark spots afterward.

And remember, it's essential for all skin types to wear sunscreen and protect their skin both before and after a chemical peel!

Medium-depth peels affect the melanocytes and may result color damage if performed on unprepped skin of color.

To prevent color damage, pre-treat skin of color with hydroquinone to “pause” melanocytes so they are not as affected during the procedure!

Are Chemical Peels Safe?

When performed by a dermatologist, chemical peels are safe and effective. However, like any procedure, they have risks. Potential side effects include redness, peeling, or temporary discoloration. Deep peels have a longer recovery period and carry a small risk of scarring or infection. Chemical peels may not be suitable for everyone. You might need to avoid them if you:

Are pregnant or breastfeeding.
Have a history of keloid scars.
Use certain acne medications like isotretinoin.
Have active skin infections or severe eczema.

Chemical Peel FAQs

How to treat breakouts after a chemical peel?
To treat breakouts after a chemical peel, use gentle, non-comedogenic products and avoid picking at the skin. Apply soothing agents like aloe vera or a light moisturizer, and consult your dermatologist if the breakouts persist.

Can you exercise after a chemical peel?
It’s best to avoid exercise for at least 24-48 hours after a chemical peel, as sweat can irritate the skin and potentially slow the healing process.

How often should I get a chemical peel?
The frequency depends on the type of peel and your skin’s needs. Light peels can be done every 4-6 weeks, while medium and deep peels require longer intervals, such as every 3-6 months.

Do chemical peels hurt?
Chemical peels may cause mild tingling or stinging during the procedure. Deeper peels might feel more uncomfortable but are usually well-tolerated with appropriate care.

What chemical peels are best for black skin?
Gentler peels like glycolic acid, lactic acid, or mandelic acid are generally safer for black skin, as they minimize the risk of hyperpigmentation. Always consult a dermatologist for recommendations.

Can you wear makeup after a chemical peel?
It’s recommended to wait at least 24-48 hours after a chemical peel before wearing makeup to allow the skin to heal and reduce the risk of irritation.

How many chemical peels get rid of hyperpigmented scars?
The number of peels needed varies by individual and severity of the scars. Mild hyperpigmentation may improve after 2-3 peels, while more severe cases may require 4-6 sessions or more.

How long does a chemical peel last?
The effects of a chemical peel can last anywhere from several weeks to months, depending on the type of peel and your skincare routine.

How long does a chemical peel take?
A chemical peel procedure typically takes 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the depth of the peel and the areas being treated.

How long does a chemical peel take to heal?
Healing time varies based on the type of peel. Light peels may heal in 3-7 days, while medium peels take 7-14 days. Deep peels may require several weeks to fully heal.

When can I moisturize my skin after a chemical peel?
You can typically start moisturizing your skin immediately after a chemical peel using a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer to maintain hydration and aid healing.

How much is a chemical peel?
The cost of a chemical peel varies widely, ranging from $100-$200 for light peels to $600-$3,000 for deeper, medical-grade peels.

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