Doctor’s Note: Your Essential Guide to Collagen Peptides

Patients always ask me about peptides, but what do they actually do? Let’s break down everything you need to know about peptides and how they can transform your skin! Today we’ll cover:

  • Collagen Building Peptides

  • Copper Peptides

  • “Botox in a Bottle” Peptides

  • Collagen Preserving Peptides

Which ones actually work? Watch the video on the right, or read on for more!

What Are Peptides?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids, which make up proteins. In your body, proteins are essential for things like skin structure, muscle movement, and immune health. In skincare, peptides are important because they can improve your skin’s health and appearance.

Think of peptides as messengers. They send signals to your skin cells, telling them to do things like make more collagen, repair damage, or reduce inflammation. This is why peptides are often found in anti-aging and skin-repair products.

Peptides - Amino Acids

What Do Peptides Do?

When people talk about "peptides," it can mean a lot of different things, making it a very broad and unclear term. Peptides are short chains of amino acids, but there are many different types, and they can do different things for your skin. Because of this, it's hard to know exactly what a product with peptides will do without more details.

On the other hand, "retinol" is very specific; it’s a type of Vitamin A that helps with wrinkles and improves skin texture. So, while "retinol" is clear, "peptides" is more like a general term that needs further explanation.

Retinol Structure

The term "retinol" is specific. It means THIS structure. Nothing else.

Peptides - Doesn't Mean Anything

"Peptides" is an umbrella term that needs more explanation. 

Which Peptide is for Me?

So how do we know if a peptide is really good for our skin? It can be tricky because many studies on peptides are sponsored by the companies that make them, which can sometimes make the results seem better than they are. Plus, a lot of the research is done in a lab (in vitro) or on animals, not on actual people. This means we don't always know how well these peptides will work on human skin. Sometimes, the results we hear about are also self-reported, meaning people just say how their skin feels, which isn't always super reliable. So, it's important to be cautious when hearing big promises about peptides.

Best Peptide Ever

Headlines can be deceiving—remember, not all peptides are created equal! Companies are going to create new peptides and report THIS PEPTIDE IS EVEN BETTER THAN THE LAST. Is it really? 🤷🏼‍♀️

Types of Peptides in Skincare

There are different types of peptides, and each one works in its own way to help your skin. Here’s a look at the most common ones:

Signal Peptides: They tell your skin cells to make more collagen. An example is Matrixyl.

Carrier Peptides: They move copper to your skin cells. An example is Copper Tripeptide.

Neurotransmitter-Inhibiting Peptides: These peptides help relax facial muscles to reduce wrinkles. People sometimes call them “Botox in a Bottle.” An example is Argireline.

Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides: They slow down the enzymes that break down collagen. An example is Rice Proteins.

Collagen-Boosting Peptides

Collagen-boosting peptides are important ingredients in many anti-aging products. They help the skin produce more collagen, which can improve firmness, reduce fine lines, and make the skin look younger. These peptides work by encouraging the skin’s natural collagen-making process. While they can be helpful over time, their results are slower and less noticeable compared to treatments like laser therapy or microneedling, which work deeper in the skin to boost collagen more quickly.

Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1 is one of the first peptides, developed in the 1970s. It's a small piece of collagen that tricks the skin into thinking collagen is breaking down. This prompts the skin to make more. It doesn’t get into the skin easily and breaks down in about 30 minutes. It’s found in products like CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream.

Matrixyl 3000

Matrixyl

Matrixyl, or Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, was introduced in the early 2000s. It has a fatty acid attached to help it penetrate the skin better than earlier peptides like Tripeptide-1. While Matrixyl is effective, it's now considered older peptide technology. You can find it in products like Olay Regenerist Vitamin C + Peptide 24 MAX Moisturizer and Olay Firm & Smooth Collagen Peptide Moisturizer.

Matrixyl Synthe'6

Matrixyl Synthe'6

Matrixyl Synthe'6, also called Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, was introduced around 2012. It targets six essential components in the skin: Collagen I, III, IV, Fibronectin, Hyaluronic Acid, and Laminin-5. This peptide has added fatty acids to help it penetrate the skin more effectively. You can find Matrixyl Synthe'6 in products like Mad Hippie Corrective Peptide Serum and Timeless Skin Care Matrixyl Synthe’6 Serum.

Matrixyl 3000

Matrixyl 3000, introduced around 2004, includes added fatty acids to help it enter the skin more easily. It combines two peptides: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a piece of collagen that signals the skin to produce more collagen by "tricking" it into thinking collagen is breaking down. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, on the other hand, reduces inflammation, slowing collagen breakdown to help the skin look younger. You can find Matrixyl 3000 in products like The INKEY List Collagen Peptide Serum, Medik8 Liquid Peptides, DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream, CeraVe Skin Renewing Eye Cream, and Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream.

Matrixyl

Copper Peptides

Copper peptides are popular in skincare because they help repair the skin and increase collagen. They can improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and help wounds heal better. While copper peptides are good for skin health and anti-aging, they are not as strong or fast-working as treatments like retinoids or professional procedures. Copper peptides work slowly, so the results are more gradual and less noticeable than stronger anti-aging options.

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

X50 Anti-Aging

X50 Anti-Aging, developed in the early 2010s, focuses on precise, high-tech delivery of peptides. It contains two peptides: Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate acts like a “key” that targets fibroblasts, the cells that make collagen. This results in VERY PRECISE delivery. Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14 then boosts collagen production. You can find X50 Anti-Aging peptides in products like Medik8 Liquid Peptides and Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream.

Copper Tripeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1 was developed in the 1970s. It offers many skincare benefits, including promoting wound healing, boosting collagen and elastin, and reducing inflammation. However, it likely doesn’t penetrate the skin very well. You can find Copper Tripeptide-1 in products like The Ordinary "Buffet" + Copper Peptides, Cosrx Peptide Serum, Good Molecules Super Peptide Serum, BIOSSANCE Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum, Glow Recipe Pomegranate Copper Peptides Face Serum.

“Botox in a Bottle” Peptides

While "Botox in a Bottle" peptides are popular for their wrinkle-reducing claims, it's important to understand that they are nowhere near as effective as actual Botox injections. These peptides can help relax facial muscles to a degree, softening fine lines over time, but they don’t offer the same level of muscle paralysis or long-lasting results that Botox provides. Topical treatments work on the surface and may improve skin appearance, but they can't match the deep, targeted effects of injectable Botox.

Argireline

Argireline

Argireline, also known as Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, was created in 2001. It is said to reduce facial muscle contractions, which lessens fine lines. However, for peptides to penetrate the skin, they need a molecular weight of under 500 Daltons, while Argireline's weight is around 900 Daltons. This means it may not work as well as intended. It also doesn’t have a special delivery system to reach the target neuron. You can find it in products like The Ordinary Buffet, Derma E Advanced Peptides & Collagen Serum, Cosrx Peptide Serum, Good Molecules Super Peptide Serum, and Naturium Multi-Peptide Serum.

X50 Myocept

X50 Myocept

X50 Myocept, released in the early 2010s, is a more advanced (and pricier) version of Argireline. It contains two peptides: Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52 helps reduce muscle contractions, which can minimize fine lines and wrinkles. Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18 acts as a “key” to enter neurons directly. This results in VERY PRECISE delivery. This unique system is called "Cosmetic Drone Delivery.” You can find X50 Myocept in products like NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate.

Collagen-Preserving Peptides

Collagen-preserving peptides help prevent the breakdown of collagen in the skin by blocking enzymes that cause it to break down. This helps keep the skin firm and smooth. These peptides are good for slowing down aging and maintaining skin health, but they work best for prevention rather than fixing serious damage. Stronger treatments may be needed for bigger results.

Soybean peptides protect collagen by blocking enzymes that break it down. They also help the skin stay hydrated and improve elasticity, making it look firmer and younger.

Rice peptides, made from rice protein, also block collagen-breaking enzymes and provide antioxidant protection, helping the skin stay firm.

Collagen-Preserving Peptides

How to Use Peptides in Your Skincare Routine

Adding peptides to your skincare routine can be as simple as finding the right product. Here’s how to do it:

The Ordinary Copper Peptides

Choose a Peptide Product: Look for serums, creams, or moisturizers with peptides. Peptides are often found in anti-aging products, but they can also help with concerns like acne scars.

Apply to Clean Skin: For the best results, use peptides on clean skin. This helps them penetrate better and work effectively.

Layer Properly: If you use other active ingredients, like retinol or vitamin C, make sure to layer them correctly. Peptides can be used with these ingredients, but always finish with a good moisturizer to lock in the benefits.

Be Consistent: Peptides work best with regular use. Apply your peptide product every day and give it time to show results.

Start Slow: If you’re new to peptides, begin with a lower strength to see how your skin reacts. You can slowly increase the concentration as your skin adjusts.

What to Expect

Peptides can be effective, but they aren’t a quick fix. You might start seeing some results in a few weeks, but bigger changes like fewer wrinkles and smoother skin can take a couple of months. Be patient and use them consistently to see the best results.

Peptides are usually safe for most people, but they can sometimes cause irritation, especially when combined with other strong ingredients. If you notice redness, dryness, or irritation, try using them less often or talk to a dermatologist.

Peptides Before and After
Peptides Before and After

Image Source: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10494783/

Peptides vs. Other Anti-Aging Ingredients

PPeptides are a helpful part of any anti-aging routine, but how do they stack up against other popular ingredients?

Peptides vs. Retinol: Retinol is a strong anti-aging ingredient that speeds up cell turnover and increases collagen. While it works well, it can be irritating for some skin types. Peptides are gentler and focus on signaling the skin to make more collagen, not on speeding up cell turnover. However, peptides don’t have as much research behind them as retinol does.

Peptides vs. Vitamin C: Vitamin C is an antioxidant that brightens the skin and protects it from damage. It works well with peptides because they both help make the skin firmer and reduce signs of aging.

Peptides vs. Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that pulls moisture into the skin, making it look plumper and reducing fine lines. While hyaluronic acid focuses on hydration, peptides help with collagen production and skin repair.

What are Peptides in Skin Care?

Explore our detailed chart of peptides used in skincare, showing how they work and help with anti-aging. From classic collagen boosters to new peptides that act like "Botox in a Bottle," this guide covers a variety of options. It includes older peptides like Tripeptide-1 and GHK-Cu, popular ones like Matrixyl, and newer types like Tetrapeptide-21 and X50 Myocept. We’ll explain each peptide how well it builds collagen, protects existing collagen, or relaxes facial muscles. This chart helps you understand how different peptides can improve skin health and appearance. Whether you’re looking at well-known peptides or the latest ones, this guide explains how they fit into modern skincare routines.

Peptide Summary Table

FAQ: Peptide Serums

What is peptide serum?
Peptide serum is a skincare product infused with peptides, which are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks for proteins like collagen and elastin. These serums are designed to improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and boost hydration by stimulating collagen production.

What does peptide serum do?
Peptide serums help to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They can also enhance the skin’s barrier function, improve hydration, and combat signs of aging for a firmer, more youthful appearance.

When to use peptide serum?
Peptide serums are best applied after cleansing and toning but before moisturizing. They can be used in the morning or evening, depending on your skincare routine. For optimal results, pair them with other hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid.

What is the best peptide serum?
The best peptide serum depends on your skincare needs. Popular options include those with Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, and GHK-Cu (copper peptides). Some highly rated peptide serums include The Ordinary’s "Buffet" + Copper Peptides, Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Serum, and SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Interrupter.

What is the best copper peptide serum?
Copper peptide serums are known for their ability to promote skin regeneration and healing. Some top choices include The Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides 1%, Medik8 Copper PCA Peptides, and NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum. These products target signs of aging, improve elasticity, and promote a radiant complexion.