Doctor’s Note: Your Easy + Essential Guide to Vitamin C

Vitamin C, also called Ascorbic Acid, is an important nutrient and a strong antioxidant. It helps brighten skin and makes collagen. Many people use it in their daily morning routines.

Watch our video to learn more, or read the highlights below!

Vitamin C

at a Glance

Key Benefits: Lightens dark spots, boosts collagen, and repairs damage.

Best For: Hyperpigmentation, dullness, fine lines, and uneven skin tone.

How to Use: Apply in the morning after cleansing and before moisturizer or sunscreen. Start slowly (2-3 times a week) and increase as tolerated.

Concentration: Many forms. L-ascorbic acid, the strongest form, is typically 10% to 20%.

What is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C is a strong antioxidant found in fruits and veggies like oranges, strawberries, and broccoli. In skincare, it helps brighten the skin, reduce dark spots, and boost collagen, which keeps skin firm. It also protects skin from damage caused by the sun and pollution. Many dermatologists recommend it because it’s effective and safe for most skin types, helping improve skin tone and texture. Using it regularly can make skin healthier and more radiant.

How Does Vitamin C Work?

Vitamin C works in three main ways:

Antioxidant: This is the STRONGEST AND MOST IMPORTANT BENEFIT of Vitamin C. Free radicals are unstable molecules that can damage skin cells, contributing to premature aging. Vitamin C neutralizing these harmful molecules in real time. That’s why Vitamin C is always recommended to use in the AM, because you are exposed to more harmful free radicals during the day (cause by sun, pollution, etc).
“Brightens Skin Tone”: Vitamin C is often praised for its brightening abilities. However, it’s a very weak pigment inhibitor. There are better options to brighten dark spots.
“Boosts Collagen Production”: Again, Vitamin C is highly respected for building collagen. Unless you are deficient in Vitamin C (which is rare), topical Vitamin C is not going to build much collagen.

Check out how Vitamin C compares to Retinol, Niacinamide, and Azelaic Acid!

Vitamin C Types

As you can see, Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) offers many benefits for our skin, but it can be tricky to work with. Ascorbic Acid is both highly unstable and not well-absorbed by the skin. Over time, different forms of Vitamin C have been created to make it more stable. This has resulted in a wide variety of products available: L-ascorbic acid (LAA), sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), ascorbyl glucoside (AG), ascorbyl palmitate (AP), 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (3OAA), and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD). Here's a quick summary of some common forms:

Practical Guide: What to Look For

When using Vitamin C in your skincare routine, keeping a few things in mind is important.

General Tips

Choose a Vitamin C concentration below 20% to avoid irritation.
Start by using it every other morning, then increase use as your skin adjusts.

Stability

Vitamin C can break down easily, especially when exposed to light, air, or water. If your product turns yellow, it’s a sign it’s losing effectiveness.
Store your Vitamin C products in airtight containers to help them last longer.

Ingredients

Look for added ingredients like Vitamin E, Ferulic Acid, or Gold, which help keep Vitamin C stable.
Pay attention to the form of Vitamin C: Ascorbic Acid (AA) is the strongest but can irritate some skin. Milder forms like 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3OAA) or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) are also good choices.

Packaging

Choose products in airtight, dark containers to protect Vitamin C from air and light.
Pump dispensers are great because they reduce air exposure each time you use the product.
Water-based formulas break down faster, so a waterless Vitamin C formula can stay stable longer.

Vitamin C For Sensitive Skin + Beginners

Vanicream Vitamin C Serum

Texture: Lightweight gel
Vitamin C: 10% THD
Ceramides: Strengthens skin barrier
Hyaluronic Acid: Hydrates
Best For: Sensitive skin

First Aid Beauty 10% Vitamin C Brightening Serum

Texture: Lightweight, silky serum
Vitamin C: 10% THD
Squalane: Hydrates
White Tea Extract: Repairs + soothes
Best For: Sensitive skin

RoC 10% Vitamin C Face Serum

Texture: Lightweight cream-gel
Vitamin C: 10%
Nonapeptide-1: Evens skin tone
Best For: Sensitive skin

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F

Texture: Lightweight oil
Vitamin C: 20% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Fatty Acids: Supports skin barrier
Best For: Sensitive skin

Sunday Riley CEO 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum

Texture: Lightweight, silky serum
Vitamin C: 15% THD
Glycolic Acid: Gently exfoliates
Lipid Complex: Nourishes skin
Best For: All skin types, especially for brightening

Revision C+ Correcting Complex 30%

Texture: Lightweight, non-greasy serum
Vitamin C: 30% THD
Vitamin E: Antioxidant, protects skin
Microbiome Technology: Supports skin barrier health
Best For: Advanced brightening and correcting

Bliss Bright Idea Vitamin C + Tri-Peptide

Texture: Lightweight gel
Vitamin C: 10% THD
Peptides: Supports collagen production
Squalane: Hydrates
Best For: Sensitive skin

Youth To The People 15% Vitamin C + Clean Caffeine Energy Serum

Texture: Serum
Vitamin C: 15%
Caffeine: Reduces puffiness, energizes skin
Hyaluronic Acid: Hydrates
Best For: Dull, tired skin

Vitamin C For Intermediate Users

Timeless Vitamin C

Texture: Lightweight serum
Vitamin C: 10% with Ferulic Acid
Vitamin E: Provides antioxidant protection
Best For: All skin types, especially for brightening and anti-aging

La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Face Serum

Texture: Lightweight, fast-absorbing serum
Vitamin C: 10% AA
Salicylic Acid: Exfoliates and refines skin texture
Neurosensine: Soothes skin and reduces irritation
Best For: Sensitive and dull skin

L'Oreal Paris Revitalift 10% Pure Vitamin C Face Serum

Texture: Lightweight serum
Vitamin C: 10% pure
Hyaluronic Acid: Hydrates
Glycerin: Locks in moisture
Best For: Dull, uneven skin tone

CeraVe Vitamin C Serum

Texture: Lightweight gel
Vitamin C: 10% AA
Ceramides: Strengthens skin barrier
Hyaluronic Acid: Hydrates
Best For: Sensitive skin

Vitamin C For Advanced Users

Vibriance Super C Serum

Texture: Brightening serum gel
Vitamin C: Potent, stabilized form
Antioxidants: Protects skin from environmental damage
Best For: All skin types

Kiehl’s Line-Reducing Concentrate

Texture: Silky, fast-absorbing serum
Vitamin C: 12.5% - reduces lines and brightens skin
Hyaluronic Acid: Provides hydration
Best For: Anti-aging and firming

Farmacy 10% Vitamin C Serum

Texture: Lightweight serum
Vitamin C: 10% waterless formula for stability
Squalane: Hydrates
Best For: Brightening and targeting dark spots

Paula's Choice BOOST C15 Super Booster

Texture: Lightweight liquid
Vitamin C: 15% with Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E
Ferulic Acid: Enhances antioxidant protection
Best For: All skin types

Banana Bright 15% Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum

Ole Henriksen Truth Serum Collagen Booster

Texture: Lightweight gel
Vitamin C: 15% with PHAs
Hyaluronic Acid: Hydrates
Best For: All skin types, especially for brightening and anti-aging

Timeless Skin Care 20% Vitamin C + E Ferulic Acid Serum

Texture: Lightweight liquid
Vitamin C: 20% with Ferulic Acid
Vitamin E: Provides antioxidant protection
Best For: All skin types

Neutrogena Rapid Tone Repair 20% Vitamin C Brightening Serum

Neutrogena Rapid Tone Repair 20% Vitamin C Serum

Texture: Lightweight serum capsules
Vitamin C: 20% stabilized
Retinol: Brightens and smooths skin texture
Best For: Dull, uneven skin tone

BeautyStat Universal C Skin Refiner

Texture: Silky, non-greasy serum
Vitamin C: 20% L-Ascorbic Acid
Squalane: Hydrates and soothes
Best For: Brightening and re-texturizing

FAQ: Vitamin C Serum

Can vitamin C serum cause breakouts?
Vitamin C serum is generally safe for most skin types, but it can sometimes cause breakouts in people with sensitive or acne-prone skin due to its acidity or the presence of other ingredients like oils or silicones.

Does vitamin C serum have a shelf life?
Yes, vitamin C serum has a shelf life. It typically lasts about 3 to 6 months after opening, depending on its formulation. Look for signs of oxidation, such as a change in color to yellow, orange, or brown, which indicates it may no longer be effective.

How long does vitamin C serum last?
An unopened bottle of vitamin C serum can last up to a year if stored in a cool, dark place. After opening, it's best to use it within 3 to 6 months to ensure potency.

Can vitamin C serum cause acne?
Vitamin C serum itself does not typically cause acne, but some formulations with heavy oils or comedogenic ingredients may clog pores and trigger breakouts. Ensure you choose a lightweight, non-comedogenic formula if you’re acne-prone.

Does vitamin C go before or after serum?
Vitamin C serum should be applied directly after cleansing and toning but before heavier serums or moisturizers. This ensures it can properly absorb into the skin.

Can you put vitamin C serum on tea tree oil?
It’s not recommended to layer vitamin C serum and tea tree oil together. Both are potent ingredients that could irritate the skin if used simultaneously. Instead, alternate their use or apply them at different times of the day.

Do I let vitamin C serum absorb?
Yes, you should let vitamin C serum fully absorb into your skin before applying other products. This usually takes about 1 to 2 minutes.

Does vitamin C serum give you a face lift?
While vitamin C serum doesn’t physically lift your face, it can improve skin firmness and elasticity by boosting collagen production, which may make your skin appear more lifted and youthful over time.

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